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Green PeaBY MARY ANN CASTRONOVO FUSCO FOR THE STAR-LEDGER Packaged the way nature intended -- in neither boxes nor cans, butin pods that dangle from dainty plants with pretty pansy-like whiteflowers -- green peas should be ready for harvesting at area farmsfor about the next three weeks. Kneeling alongside the delicate vines, a seasoned farm hand canpick a bushel of peas in about an hour, said Liz Wightman ofWightman's Farms in Harding Township, where 10 (400-foot-long) rowsof low-bush peas arc on a Watchung hillside with its face to thesoutheast. Her husband, Ken, put in three varieties, Spring, Knightand Utrillo, each of which will yield two pickings. "They ripen six to seven days apart so that by the time the firstvariety has had its first picking, the second variety is just readyfor its first picking and then the first variety will be ready forits second picking," he explained. Pod size varies: Spring'smeasures about three inches; Knight's, four; and Utrillo's, five."You don't want to let them get real big. If you let them get toobig, then they taste starchy," said Ken. Peas have been growing on his family's property since the farm wasfounded, back in 1922. Though his wife didn't grow up on thisparticular parcel of farmland, she has fond memories of afternoonsspent shelling peas at her grandparents' dairy farm in SussexCounty. "In those days, it was a social thing. You sat on a rocking chairon the back porch," she recalled. Shelling freshly harvested peas-- munching on a few as they were popped out of their pods -- fitthe rhythm of that bygone era, when family visits and even weddingsand funerals were timed around the cows' milking schedule, sheadded. Today, shelling a batch of peas might seem more like a nuisancethan a pleasant pastime to genera- tions accustomed to picking their peas -- already shelled, thankyou very much -- from a supermarket freezer case, especially sincethe frozen product -- processed within hours of being picked --offers good flavor and convenience. Still, picked at their prime,fresh peas are likely to be sweeter and more tender than even thebest of their frozen counterparts -- so much so that they can beeaten raw, which is how Ken Wightman likes them best. If they must be cooked, fresh peas should be placed into boilingwater just long enough to warm them up. "If you boil them, you'reboiling them out of their little jacket, the shell around the pea,"warned Liz. -- Shopping Hints: Look for pods that are shiny, plump, unblemishedand crisp. Avoid those that are yellowed, withered, or rubbery. -- Shelling Tips: Rinse the pods. Working over a bowl, cut or snapoff the stem of the pod, pulling it down the side so the stringrunning along the edge of the pod comes off with it, breaking theseal. Pull open the pod, allowing the peas to fall into the bowl. -- Cooking Suggestions: The easiest way to go is with a pat ofbutter and a dash of salt and pepper. Chopped fresh mint is aclassic accent. For a change of pace, season peas with choppedfresh chervil, parsley or tarragon. Always use fresh peas as closeto purchase as possible, for the sugars in green peas begin toconvert to starch as soon as they're picked, and even while stillon the vine if they're past their prime. -- Nutrition Notes: Green peas are an excellent source of vitaminC, a good source of vitamin A, and contain iron. -- Fun Facts: Thomas Jefferson grew 30 varieties of peas atMonticello. Gregor Mendel laid the foundation for the science ofgenetics with his studies of pea plants in the 19th century. Cannedpeas look drab because the heat from the canning process destroystheir chlorophyll.-- Farm Info: Wightman's Farms, 1111 Mt. KembleRoad, Morristown, 07960. Farm is in Harding Township but has aMorristown mailing address.